First you need a couple of important elements that need to build solar cell preparation. These elements include:

Plates of copper or
or Plexiglas / perpex / acrylic sheets
Some or thin wood strip
copper wire
tape or
or metal Guillotine
Or Sawdust
O Ring Electric Hob

To begin, cut a square of copper plates, then at 6-8 in the square in size. It is much easier than dealing with a metal sash, but ifNo access to this type of equipment, tin snips work well.

Once this is done, wash your hands thoroughly and dry. You must have a fat or oil to remove from the hands that may interfere with the next stage of the process. Remove any residual grease or copper plates. Then take a piece of sandpaper and carefully sand the piece of copper on both sides of the top layer of oxidized copper was removed. Make clearshiny copper underneath.

Now you need a heat treatment of a copper oxide layer on top form. It may seem counter intuitive that we just removed the oxide and oxide is now going left, but the oxide layer, apply a layer of "copper" is.

You turn the burner to maximum intensity, with copper skin placed only on top. Take buyer beware amendments, they are very interesting. If the heatcopper, takes a nice light patina of various colors.

If you have access to nitric acid may be a good way to remove the first layer of carbon monoxide.

You will see a clear black oxide from the top of the copper plate. If you have the dish to cool slowly, the piece is relatively low and easily separated from the underlying fragility of the buyer. If you are admitted to the board to cool completely, giving the company a flat edge-bang on a hard surface.Some of the oxide open off. Rub lightly with your fingers oxide under a tap and get more of the oxide layer black or out easily. In case of parts hardened in any case, their homes, because we do not want to damage delicate surfaces.

Under this layer of black oxide, there is another layer of red rust orange. This is a layer of "light" and make thin film solar cells work.

Make a spacer now by a series of thinbehavior of wood. Use tape to join pieces of wood together. Do not use metal as confirmation has been electrolytically react with other components of the cell.

We now make a second electrode. It has the characteristic that is not even a piece of solar cell contact to have, and let the light hit the surface. We will use sea water as our other electrode in contact with the surface of thin-film cells, but exports of electricity. We are soAnother thread go to immerse the context. You can also have a second piece of brass plate on the outside of thin-film cell, but does not affect our oxidized copper.

In a commercial cell thin-film tin oxide is commonly used as the second electrode, it is clear, however, produce electricity.

Take a piece of perspex to act as a front, and hold a series of tape on each side.

Let other cables to keepThis piece of Plexiglas.

Use a thicker cable for clarity, with little real zig-zag so you can clearly see what was happening. To optimize the performance of your solar, you call the wire size. To this end, it is a better use of meters long wire thinner than a model much finer zig-zag – it will still allow the passage of light, providing a large area conductor.

You can experiment with different types of wires and copper – the trick is to tryand ensure that the surface of copper, while trying to light as little as possible not to reach the solar cell.
Fold the tape, plug in the card.

We will begin flat electrode and combines with space. Again, this band is a nice easy task.

Then he goes into the copper plate to take and keep the tape on one side, with the sticky side of tape facing the same direction as the layer of copper.

Combineplate and form the front end of the solar cell.

Now take a little salt, and bridge the gap between the Perspex front and copper plate. Form seal with tape all around to prevent leakage.

Finally, connect the module with a multimeter, find a light source, and examine some of the electrical properties of your solar cell.